There’s a reason Argentine Patagonia tops bucket lists around the world. The sight of Perito Moreno glacier calving into turquoise waters and the stunning peaks of Fitz Roy emerging from morning clouds are two of the main reasons. El Calafate and El Chaltén, the two gateways to this region, offer experiences that feel almost cinematic.
We spent a week exploring both towns and came away convinced that this corner of Argentina delivers some of the most dramatic scenery on Earth. However, Patagonia requires careful planning, as the weather is notoriously unpredictable, distances are vast, and costs can escalate quickly if you’re not prepared. This guide covers everything you need to know to make the most of your time, whether you have five days or seven.
How Many Days Do You Need?
The honest answer: as many as you can spare. But here’s a realistic breakdown:
5 days (minimum): Enough to see Perito Moreno glacier and complete the iconic Laguna de los Tres hike to Fitz Roy. You’ll feel rushed, but you’ll hit the highlights. Best for travellers on tight schedules who prioritise efficiency over flexibility.
7 days (recommended): Allows for weather delays, additional hikes, and a more relaxed pace. You can add Laguna Torre, explore Lago del Desierto, or have a rest day. This is what we recommend for first-time visitors.
Our suggested split:
- El Calafate: 2 nights (glacier + arrival/departure logistics)
- El Chaltén: 3-4 nights (hiking + weather buffer)
Why more time in El Chaltén? The hiking is extraordinary, but you need clear weather to fully appreciate it. Building in buffer days means you can wait for the clouds to lift.
Getting There
By air: Fly into El Calafate Airport (FTE), which receives daily flights from Buenos Aires (3 hours), Bariloche, and Ushuaia. Aerolíneas Argentinas, LATAM, and budget carriers FlyBondi and JetSmart all operate routes. Book early for the best prices—flights can exceed $150 USD one-way during peak season.
El Calafate to El Chaltén: The 220 km drive takes approximately 3 hours along the iconic Ruta 40. Options include:
- Bus: Companies like Caltur, Chaltén Travel, and TAQSA run multiple daily services ($25-35 USD one-way). First departure is around 8 AM, and the last one is around 6 PM.
- Rental car: Offers flexibility, but note there are NO gas stations between the two towns. Fill up completely before leaving either direction.
- Private transfer: Around $150-200 USD for a private vehicle, useful for groups.
Pro tip: The drive itself is stunning once you approach El Chaltén—Fitz Roy appears on the horizon like something from another planet. Try to make the journey in daylight.
Best Time to Visit
High season (November-March): The only realistic window for most travellers. Days are long (sunrise around 5 AM, sunset after 10 PM in December), trails are accessible, and all services operate. January and February are the busiest months; book accommodation months in advance.
Shoulder season (October & April): Fewer crowds and lower prices, but some services may be limited. The weather is more unpredictable, and snow can close higher trails.
Winter (May-September): Most of El Chaltén essentially shuts down. El Calafate remains accessible for glacier visits, but hiking options are severely limited.
The weather reality: Patagonia’s weather is infamously changeable. You might experience all four seasons in a single day. The key is flexibility: check forecasts daily, and be prepared to shuffle your itinerary based on conditions. Clear mornings in El Chaltén are precious; when you get one, hit the trail early.
The Itinerary: 5-7 Days in El Calafate & El Chaltén
Day 1: Arrive in El Calafate
Most flights from Buenos Aires arrive mid-morning or early afternoon. Use this day to get oriented and ease into Patagonia’s rhythm.
Afternoon:
After checking into your accommodation, head to Laguna Nimez, a small nature reserve on the edge of town. This wetland sanctuary is home to flamingos, black-necked swans, and dozens of other bird species. It’s an easy 1-2 hour visit and a gentle introduction to the region’s wildlife. Entry costs around $10 USD.
Alternatively, stroll along the Costanera (lakefront promenade) for views across Lago Argentino, then explore the main street—Avenida del Libertador—where you’ll find restaurants, outdoor shops, and tour agencies.
Evening:
Dinner in town. El Calafate has surprisingly good restaurants given its remote location. Try Patagonian lamb (cordero patagónico) slow-roasted over an open flame—it’s the regional speciality. For more on what to eat, see our guide to traditional Argentine food.
Where to stay: El Calafate has the widest range of accommodation in the region, from budget hostels to lakeside luxury. See our complete guide to where to stay in El Calafate for recommendations at every price point.
Day 2: Perito Moreno Glacier
Today is dedicated to one of the world’s most spectacular natural wonders. Perito Moreno is one of the few glaciers on Earth that’s still advancing, and watching house-sized chunks of ice calve into the water below is genuinely awe-inspiring.
Option A: Walkways Only (Half Day)
The most accessible option. A network of steel walkways extends across the hillside opposite the glacier, offering multiple viewpoints at different levels. You can spend 2-4 hours here, mesmerised by the scale of the ice wall (60 metres high, 5 km wide) and the thunderous crack of calving ice. Park entry costs around $25-30 USD for foreigners.
Option B: Mini Trekking (Full Day) — Recommended
This is the experience we’d urge you not to miss. After viewing the glacier from the walkways, you’ll take a boat across the lake and actually walk ON the glacier for about 1.5 hours. Crampons are provided, and guides lead you through a surreal landscape of ice formations, crevasses, and impossibly blue pools. The tour typically ends with whiskey poured over glacier ice—a fitting celebration.
The mini trekking costs around $200-250 USD, including transport from El Calafate. For the full details of what to expect, read our complete guide to Mini Trekking on Perito Moreno.
Option C: Big Ice (Full Day, Advanced)
For serious adventurers, Big Ice offers 3+ hours of glacier trekking covering more challenging terrain. You’ll need reasonable fitness, but the extended time on the ice is extraordinary. Around $350-400 USD.
Evening:
Return to El Calafate exhausted and exhilarated. Consider visiting the Glaciarium, an excellent museum dedicated to glaciology and climate science, if you have energy left.
Day 3: Transfer to El Chaltén + Afternoon Hike
Take an early morning bus (8 AM departure recommended) to El Chaltén. The 3-hour journey crosses the Patagonian steppe before the landscape transforms dramatically as you approach the mountains.
Upon arrival:
El Chaltén is tiny—just a few blocks of hostels, restaurants, and outdoor shops nestled at the base of the mountains. Drop your bags at your accommodation and head to the National Park Visitor Centre at the village entrance. Rangers provide trail conditions, weather updates, and maps. This stop is essential.
Afternoon hike: Mirador de los Cóndores & Las Águilas (2-3 hours)
These short trails behind the visitor centre offer excellent views over the village and valley. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot Andean condors soaring on thermals. It’s the perfect warm-up hike after a morning of travel.
Alternatively: Chorrillo del Salto (2-3 hours)
An easy walk to a pretty 20-metre waterfall, great for stretching your legs without exhausting yourself before the big hikes ahead.
Evening:
Explore El Chaltén’s small but excellent restaurant scene. La Cervecería offers craft beer and hearty meals; Maffia Trattoria does excellent pasta. Stock up on snacks and water for tomorrow’s hike.
For complete details on trails, food, and lodging in town, see our El Chaltén Travel Guide.
Day 4: Laguna de los Tres (Fitz Roy)
This is the crown jewel of Patagonian hiking. The trail to Laguna de los Tres delivers you to the base of Mount Fitz Roy, where the granite spires rise above a stunning glacial lake. It’s the image that defines Patagonia.
The hike:
- Distance: 21 km roundtrip (can extend to 26 km via Piedras Blancas)
- Duration: 8-9 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
- Elevation gain: 700 metres (the final kilometre is brutal)
Start early. We cannot emphasise this enough. Leave by 6-7 AM to reach the lagoon before crowds and to maximise your chances of clear views. The final ascent—400 metres up a steep, rocky slope—is demanding, but the reward is one of the most spectacular viewpoints in South America.
What to bring: Layers (weather changes fast), rain jacket, trekking poles (helpful for the descent), 2+ litres of water, lunch and snacks, sunscreen, and a camera/phone with charged batteries.
Pro tip: The weather matters enormously. If Fitz Roy is hidden in clouds, consider swapping this day with Day 5 and doing Laguna Torre instead. Save the Fitz Roy hike for the clearest day available.
For the complete trail guide, including route options and what to expect, read our detailed guide to trekking Laguna de los Tres and Mount Fitz Roy.
Day 5: Laguna Torre or Rest Day
After yesterday’s effort, you have options:
Option A: Laguna Torre Hike (7-8 hours)
The second most popular hike in El Chaltén leads to a milky glacial lake beneath the needle-like Cerro Torre. The terrain is easier than Laguna de los Tres, with more gradual elevation gain and the chance to see the Torre glacier up close. At the lake, look for icebergs that have calved from the glacier.
Option B: Rest Day
Your legs will thank you. El Chaltén is a lovely place to relax—grab coffee at a café, browse the outdoor shops, or simply enjoy the views from town. This is also your weather buffer: if yesterday was cloudy, use today to attempt Laguna de los Tres instead.
Option C: Shorter Hikes
- Laguna Capri (4-5 hours): A beautiful lake with Fitz Roy views, less demanding than Laguna de los Tres.
- Mirador del Torre (3-4 hours): Views of Cerro Torre without the full Laguna Torre commitment.
Day 6 (7-Day Itinerary): Lago del Desierto or Additional Hiking
With extra time, you can explore beyond El Chaltén’s main trails:
Option A: Lago del Desierto (Full Day)
This stunning lake, 37 km north of El Chaltén, feels wonderfully remote. Take a bus or drive to the lake, then hike to viewpoints or take a boat cruise to the far end (which borders Chile). The scenery rivals anything else in the region. Buses depart around 8 AM and return late afternoon ($30-40 USD round-trip).
Option B: Piedra del Fraile & Río Eléctrico (Full Day)
A longer hike into the backcountry with fewer crowds and beautiful river scenery. Can be combined with an overnight at the Piedra del Fraile refugio for a multi-day adventure.
Option C: Huemul Glacier Viewpoint (2-3 hours)
A short trail south of town offering views of the Huemul glacier. Perfect if you want a lighter day.
Day 7 (7-Day Itinerary): Return to El Calafate & Departure
Take a morning bus back to El Calafate (departures around 8 AM, arrive by 11 AM). If your flight is in the afternoon or evening, you have a few hours to spare:
Morning options before departure:
- Return to the Perito Moreno walkways if you feel you didn’t have enough time
- Visit the Glaciarium museum (excellent if you missed it on Day 2)
- Relax by Lago Argentino with a coffee
Most flights to Buenos Aires depart in the afternoon, so you’ll arrive back in the capital by evening—exhausted, wind-burned, and already planning your return.
What to Do When the Weather Doesn’t Cooperate
Patagonia will test your flexibility. Here’s your backup plan:
Rainy day in El Chaltén:
- Shorter hikes like Chorrillo del Salto are still worthwhile in light rain
- Visit the small but interesting Museo de Escalada (climbing museum)
- Gear up at the excellent outdoor shops (prices are reasonable)
- Catch up on rest—you’ll need it for the next clear day
- Enjoy a Traditional Patagonian Lamb “al asador” or “a la cruz”. We recommend Don Pichon (see picture above).
Rainy day in El Calafate:
- The Glaciarium is the best indoor activity—fascinating exhibits on ice and climate
- Book a boat tour to Upsala or Spegazzini glaciers (runs in most weather)
- Explore shops and restaurants on Avenida del Libertador
Key strategy: Check weather forecasts every evening and be prepared to reshuffle. If a perfect day appears in El Chaltén, drop everything and hike to Laguna de los Tres. You can rest when it’s cloudy.
Where to Stay
El Calafate:
The larger town has more options at every price point. Stay near Avenida del Libertador for easy access to restaurants and buses. Budget hostels, comfortable B&Bs, and lakeside luxury hotels are all available. For specific recommendations, see our complete El Calafate accommodation guide.
El Chaltén:
Much smaller, with fewer but characterful options. Book well in advance for peak season—popular places sell out months ahead. Options range from the legendary Rancho Grande Hostel (backpacker central) to boutique hotels like Destino Sur and Chalten Suites. Most accommodation is within walking distance of trailheads. See our El Chaltén Travel Guide for recommendations.
Budget tip: Accommodation in El Calafate is generally 30-50% cheaper than in El Chaltén. If you’re watching costs, spend more nights in Calafate and make El Chaltén a shorter, focused stay.
Budget Breakdown
Patagonia isn’t cheap—here’s what to expect:
Budget Traveller ($100-150 USD/day)
- Hostel dorm: $15-25
- Self-catering + occasional restaurant meal: $25-40
- Bus transport: $10-15/day averaged
- Glacier walkways (no trekking): $25-30
- Free hiking in El Chaltén: $0
5-day total: $500-750 USD
Mid-Range Traveler ($180-280 USD/day)
- Private room in hostel or budget hotel: $60-100
- Restaurant meals: $40-60
- Bus transport or shared transfer: $15-25
- Mini trekking on glacier: $200-250
- Occasional tours: $30-50
5-day total: $900-1,400 USD
Comfort Traveller ($300-450 USD/day)
- Boutique hotel: $150-250
- Nice restaurants + wine: $60-100
- Private transfers: $50-80
- Big Ice tour or premium experiences: $350-400
- Boat tours: $100-200
5-day total: $1,500-2,250 USD
Money Tips
- Bring cash: Many places in El Chaltén don’t accept cards. ATMs exist, but have poor exchange rates and often run out. Bring USD or withdraw pesos in Buenos Aires.
- Blue dollar rate: If paying in USD, ask about the “blue” rate—you’ll often get 20-30% more value than the official exchange.
- Book ahead: Glacier tours and accommodation in peak season sell out. Book 2-3 months in advance for January/February.
Essential Packing List
Patagonian weather demands preparation:
- Layers: Base layer, fleece, down jacket, windproof/waterproof shell
- Hiking boots: Waterproof, broken-in, with good ankle support
- Rain gear: Jacket and pants—you WILL need them
- Trekking poles: Essential for the steep descents
- Sunglasses & sunscreen: UV is intense at this latitude
- Buff/neck gaiter: Protects against wind and dust
- Daypack: 25-35 litres for day hikes
- Water bottles: 2+ litres capacity; streams along trails are drinkable
- Snacks: Energy bars, nuts, and chocolate for trail fuel
Final Thoughts
El Calafate and El Chaltén delivered everything we hoped for and more. Watching Perito Moreno calve was one of those rare moments where nature feels genuinely alive. And reaching Laguna de los Tres—exhausted, windswept, and slightly disbelieving—was the hiking highlight of our time in South America.
Yes, Patagonia requires effort. The weather is demanding, the distances are long, and the costs add up. But the rewards are proportional. This is a landscape that stays with you, that makes other mountains feel somehow smaller. If it’s on your list, stop hesitating and start planning.
Continuing your Argentina adventure? Check out our 7-day Bariloche itinerary for the northern Lake District, or explore traditional Argentine food to fuel your travels.