What is bodegon or fonda?
“Cantina“, “fonda” or “bodegón” are words used to describe those restaurants which are not sophisticated at all, but authentic and pleasant. Their focus is to serve quality food at affordable prices. They are known for serving traditional and authentic Argentinean dishes that are often passed down through generations. They normally offer homemade-style cooking with regional ingredients, and they are budget-friendly establishments.
Their portions are normally generous, their staff friendly and experienced, and the decoration is arguably old-fashioned. Football shirts, theatre posters, stainless steel trays, syphons for sparkling water, linen tablecloths and napkins, vitraux, boisserie and the very traditional “penguin pitcher” are some of the classic elements of these restaurants. The latter are ceramic or porcelain penguins used to pour wine, which have become a cultural relic in Argentina.
🍽️ Quick Bodegón Guide
Traditional, no-frills Argentine restaurants serving homemade food at affordable prices. Also called “fonda” or “cantina.”
$18,000-30,000 ARS per meal
(~$18-30 USD)
Much cheaper than tourist restaurants
1. La Ochavita (Mataderos)
2. El Obrero (La Boca)
3. Cantina Palermo
4. Los Bohemios
5. Bar El Federal
• Milanesas (breaded cutlets)
• Ossobuco (braised veal shanks)
• Cannelloni & Lasagna
• Revuelto Gramajo
• Flan mixto
The Best Bodegones in Buenos Aires
The following list was meticulously compiled based on numerous experiences and wise advice from Argentine people who love food and have been in Buenos Aires for a long time. Thanks to @lachicadelbrunch whose material was essential.
For now, we are limiting the list to a picture and a few signature dishes (specialities, highlights) per “bodegón“.
La Ochavita, Mataderos
- Oven-baked Ossobuco, served with big ham and cheese agnolotti and vegetables. Order in advance.
- Fried empanadas filled with Vacio
- Vacio Lasagna (to share)
- Spinach buñuelos
- Mixed Flan (with cream and dulce de leche)
Bodegon Nuñez
- Pulled beef cannelloni
- Meatballs with Filetto sauce
- Revuelto Gramajo
- Milanesa Gran Bodegon
- Provoleta Bodegon
- Banana Split
IL Vero Arturito, Abasto/Palermo
- Chivito Parisienne
- Ravioli filled with Bondiola (pork) with Porto wine
- Fusilli Fierrito
- Salmon ravioli
- Suprema (Milanesa) Maryland
Los Bohemios, Villa Crespo
- Mollejas with spring onion
- Ossobuco ravioli
- Merluza (hake) with prawns and mixed puree (pure duquesa)
- Entraña (skirt steak) with patatas bravas
- Belgian chocolate mousse with white chocolate
Cantina Palermo
- Matambre a la fugazzeta (with melted cheese)
- Mollejas with cream and potatoes
- Milanesa Napolitana
- Fussili with melted Roquefort cheese
- Copa Palermo (filled with chocolate mousse and topped with Sambayon)
Bodegon de las Abuelas (El Pasaje), Villa Crespo
Known as “Bodegon de las Abuelas”, due to the owners, chefs and waitresses who are two kind grandmothers.
- Tortilla de papa filled with chicken milanesa
- Oven-baked Vacio (beef cut) with potatoes
- Matambre tiernizado relleno (filled) with puree
- Budin de pan with chocolate chips
Resto Chacabuco, Monserrat
- Beef loin (lomo) Bocconcino with mustard sauce
- Olives filled with cheese and topped with breadcrumbs (a la Milanesa)
- Spanish tortilla
- Spinach ravioli
El Corralon, Balvanera
The last place where Rodrigo El Potro had dinner.
- Entraña (skirt steak), which they cut with a spoon
- Black ravioli filled with salmon topped with prawn sauce
- Provolate de la casa
- Pancake with rum
El Boliche de Nico, Villa Urquiza
- Costillar al asador
- Matambre a la pizza
- Filled provoleta
Don Ignacio, Almagro
- Specialty: Milanesas. They have 35 different flavours.
- Don Ignacio (ham, mozzarella, onion and 2 fried eggs)
- Cubana (bacon and plum)
Doña Cocina Tipo Casa, Almagro
- Cappelletti with “estofado” (beef stew)
- Mozzarella en carroza with filetto sauce
- Fussili al fierrito
- Ham and cheese sorrentinos with “Principe de Napoli” sauce
El Ferroviario Parrilla, Liniers
One of the best parrillas in Buenos Aires. Huge portions to share.
Bar El Federal, San Telmo
Bar El Federal is one of the oldest and most iconic bars/restaurants in Buenos Aires. Inaugurated in 1864 and declared a “Site of Cultural Interest”
- Pavita en escabeche
- Picadas
- Spanish tortilla
El Obrero, La Boca
- Spinach ravioli
- Matambre a la Portuguesa
- Asado and entraña
Pippo, Centro
- Vermicellis tuco y pesto
- Sorrentinos de jamón y muzzarella con estofado de carne (beef stew)
- Bife de chorizo
Turf Parrilla, Boedo
- Filled Cabutia (pumpkin)
- Milanesa Napolitana (to be cut with a spoon)
- Tira de Asado
Bodegon La Pipeta, Centro
- Entraña
- Pork “Matambre”
- Rabas a la Romana (fried calamari)
- Caramelised pancake with dulce de leche
Lo de Lucas, Escobar
Huge portions to share.
- Milanesa Lo de Lucas: aubergine, cheddar, crispy bacon, barbecue sauce, fried eggs and french fries (see picture above)
- Mozzarella sticks
Jazmin Parrilla, Flores
- Spanish tortilla filled with ham, cheese and milanesa
- 4 cheese Milanesa
- Asado (mixed grilled meat)
- Oreo bomb with cream and dulce de leche (dessert)
Bodegon La Popular, Banfield
- Bife de chorizo “a lo pobre”
- 4 cheese Malfatti
- Bondiola de cerdo a la mostaza y miel con papas rústicas
Los Orientales, Almagro
- Milanesa Montevideo: Parma ham, rocket, Parmesan cheese, mozzarella french fries (see picture above)
- Budin de pan (huge)
Albamonte Ristorante, Chacarita
- Mongongo a la Española
- Kidneys “a la provenzal”
- Beef loin with potatoes and cream and Sherry wine sauce
Cantina Chichilo, La Paternal
Maradona used to go a lot.
- Ham and cheese Sorrentinos with scarparo sauce
- Milanes Napolitana
- Fussili with chorizo “a la pomarola” sauce
La Gran Taberna, Congreso
- Cazuela de Mariscos (seafood casserole) (with as much seafood as you can imagine)
- Mondongo “a la Española”
Manolo, San Telmo
- Sirloin steak (bife de chorizo) with black pepper sauce accompanied by “milhojas de papa” (multi-layered potatoes with cream)
- Pamplona (grilled stuffed meat from Uruguay) wrapped in bacon with grilled sweet potatoes
La Cocina de Batatas, Floresta
- Milanesa tower (3 layers of milanesa, ham, cheese and other toppings)
- Slow over-cooked beef with potatoes. They are called “El Rey de la carne al horno”
Rotiseria Restaurante Miramar, Constitución
- Perla Negra (black ravioli filled with salmon)
- Spinach and chicken panzotti
- Ranas (frogs) provenzal
Restaurante Roque, Boedo
- Locro (see picture above). It could be available only for Independence Day
- Beef loin(lomo) and “provoleta alfajor”: 5 layers of beef and provelta
Vicente Resto, Belgrano
- Sweet potatoes risotto
- Fussili scarparo
- Filled gnocchi
Spiagge di Napoli, Almagro
- Spinach ravioli filled with ricotta, ham, cheese and almonds
- Lasagna Bolognese
- Fussili al Fierrito with mixed sauce (tuco y pesto)
La Torca, Palermo
- Tortilla castellana (chorizo and ham)
- Paella Valenciana
- Cintas negras con salsa de camarones
Bar Aleman, Devoto
- Beef loin goulash with gnocchi
- Beef loin “a la Marsala”
- Copa Rio and tiramisu (dessert)
Classic Bodegón Dishes You’ll Find Everywhere
🍝 Pasta Dishes
- Cannelloni: Stuffed pasta tubes (usually ricotta or meat), baked with white sauce
- Ñoquis (Gnocchi): Traditionally eaten on the 29th of each month (Día de Ñoquis)
- Sorrentinos: Round stuffed pasta, typically with ham & cheese or spinach & ricotta
- Lasagna: Layered pasta with meat sauce, béchamel, and cheese
🥩 Meat Dishes
- Milanesa: Breaded and fried beef cutlet (like schnitzel)
- Milanesa Napolitana: Milanesa topped with tomato sauce, ham, and melted cheese
- Ossobuco: Braised veal shanks, slow-cooked until fall-off-the-bone tender
- Vacío: Flank steak, often used in empanadas or as a main
🍳 Other Classics
- Revuelto Gramajo: Scrambled eggs with ham, potatoes, and peas
- Provoleta: Grilled provolone cheese, crispy outside, melted inside
- Matambre: Stuffed rolled beef, served cold or hot
🍮 Desserts
- Flan Mixto: Flan with both dulce de leche and whipped cream
- Panqueques con Dulce de Leche: Crepes filled with dulce de leche
- Tiramisú: Italian classic, found in most Italian-Argentine bodegones
Frequently Asked Questions About Bodegones
What’s the difference between a bodegón and a regular restaurant?
Bodegones are traditional, no-frills family-run establishments serving homemade Argentine and Italian-influenced food at affordable prices. They’re authentic neighbourhood spots with generous portions, old-school decor (penguin
pitchers, football jerseys, vintage posters), and have been serving the same recipes for generations. Regular restaurants tend to be more upscale with modern menus.
Do bodegones accept credit cards?
Many traditional bodegones are cash-only or prefer cash. More modern ones accept cards, but it’s always wise to bring cash (Argentine pesos). Some accept Mercado Pago (local payment app).
Do I need reservations at Bodegones?
It depends. Famous spots like La Ochavita, El Obrero, and Cantina Palermo can get very busy, especially on weekends. Call ahead or arrive early (12-1 PM for lunch, 8-9 PM for dinner). Neighbourhood bodegones are usually more
relaxed.
What should I order at my first bodegón?
Start with these classics: Milanesa napolitana (breaded cutlet with tomato sauce, ham, and cheese), homemade pasta (cannelloni, lasagna), or ossobuco (if available). Always order flan mixto (with dulce de leche and cream) for
dessert. Drink house wine from the penguin pitcher!
Are bodegones vegetarian-friendly?
Somewhat. Most bodegones serve vegetarian pasta dishes (like spinach cannelloni or verdura lasagna) and large salads. However, the focus is heavily meat-based. Vegan options are rare in traditional bodegones.
How much should I budget for a meal at a bodegón?
Budget 18,000-30,000 ARS per person ($18-30 USD) for a full meal, including appetiser, main course, dessert, and house wine. Famous bodegones like La Ochavita and El Obrero charge 25,000-40,000 ARS ($25-40). Neighbourhood spots are more affordable at 15,000-25,000 ARS. While not as cheap as they once were, bodegones still offer significantly better value than tourist restaurants in Palermo or Puerto Madero (which charge 40,000-70,000 ARS per person).
What’s the proper etiquette at a bodegón?
Bodegones are casual and relaxed. Arrive hungry (portions are huge), take your time (meals last 2+ hours), share dishes, and don’t be shy about asking for recommendations. Tipping is 10% of the bill. It’s normal to stay at your
table chatting after finishing.
Why is Italian food so common in bodegones?
Buenos Aires received massive Italian immigration (1880-1930), particularly from Naples and Genoa. These immigrants brought their recipes and opened neighbourhood eateries. Today’s bodegones preserve this Italian-Argentine fusion
traditions.
What’s a “penguin pitcher” and why is it everywhere?
The iconic ceramic penguin-shaped pitcher (pingüino) is used to serve house wine in bodegones. It became a cultural symbol of traditional Argentine dining. The penguin keeps wine cool and adds nostalgic charm. If your bodegón has
penguins, you know it’s authentic!